Speculations on Chanel ex-Creative Director Virginie Viard

Image courtesy: IG@chanelofficiel

Will she or won’t she attend the Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024/25? Of course, the subject of the question is the now-ex Chanel artistic director Virginie Viard who abruptly left the fashion house in early June 2025 after five years in charge, 20 days before the haute couture show she designed and planned. And while most fashion industry die-hards are likely more obsessed with guessing Viard’s successor, I’m somehow stuck on why Viard left when and how she did. My spidey sense says something is a bit off. 

Viard’s career at Chanel, and with mentor Karl Lagerfeld, spanned decades. She first started at Chanel in 1987 before following Lagerfeld to Chloe. Then, Viard returned to Chanel in 1997, where Lagerfeld was the Creative Director, as head of the fashion studio. In 2000, Viard became Director of the creation studio, working shoulder to shoulder with Lagerfeld for nearly 20 years until his death in 2019, on haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories. 

For all of the back chatter about Karl’s successor while he was alive – Haider Ackermann, Hedi Slimane – when he did pass, Viard was the easy natural successor, at least for the transition time period. She could easily complete and shepherd through Lagerfeld’s designs and collections in progress, and keep his, and the brand’s vision alive.

But she was no Lagerfeld. He was a star and showman of the spectacular – fashion presentations were extravaganzas, each bigger and bolder than the next, permitting him to take his bow and place in the limelight. Viard was and is quieter, and perhaps that of itself disappointed an industry used to being awed. She was appointed Chanel Artistic Director in 2019 and her first solo collection for the house was Cruise 2020 presented at Paris’s Grand Palais, the site often used by Lagerfeld as well. 

Whether Viard was to be the long-term successor – contemplated in reference to her predecessor – was never clear. She had the credentials, ability, training, and Karl’s trust, and was the natural choice to helm the brand, at least for a period of time, however long. And perhaps not long at all – a year or two as Chanel recovered from the loss of an icon. 

My guess is that the pandemic in 2020 through a monkey wrench into whatever short-term succession plans were being formulated by the Wertheimer brothers. Particularly if they desired another larger-than-life figure, a celebrity in his or her own right. If so, Viard likely was a short-term solution, lengthened by a global crisis where keeping the brand alive and successful was top priority. And that she did. Whether collections were popular or profitable, must be judged in the context of the world shuttering for nearly two years, and longer in some locales. 

No doubt, Viard, like most designers, faced both criticism and acclaim. Some liked designs, others found them uninspiring. She hewed to the classic Chanel codes – pearls, camellias, double CC logo – keeping them alive in the 2020s, while we all hunkered down at home. Viard also introduced a new bag style which, despite a slow start, has become a social media and practical favorite. The Chanel 22, which debuted in 2022, can be hard to get in certain sizes and fabrications.

The loudest complaints, however – at least from handbag aficionados – were the ever-escalating prices of Chanel handbags (and the alleged concomitant decline in quality). From May 2019 to Viard’s departure in June 2024 the cost of Chanel’s Medium Classic Flap nearly doubled, spiking from $5800 to the now shocking $10,800. That’s an 86% increase in five years that inflation alone cannot justify. Did bag sales decline as a result? In discussing its 2023 financial results, CFO Blondieux admitted that of its 16% revenue growth, 9% came from price hikes rather than increased product sales, so perhaps. But, that’s typically not in the purview of a Creative Director.

Another big shift at Chanel was the 2021 hiring of new CEO Leena Nair. An accomplished human resources executive from consumer products brand Unilever, no doubt she would at some point begin to make changes in management. Indeed, over the last year,  several high-level management employees have left Chanel. And, to be clear, I am not pitting Nair and Viard against each other; just saying organizations and people change.

So, what were the circumstances around Viard’s departure? The rumor mill continues in overdrive, blaming Nair, Wertheimer, and Viard, depending on who is speaking. Two weeks before Viard left Chanel, upon questioning, the brand confirmed its commitment to Viard, praising her work for the brand. Some speculate that was the kiss of death indicating her remaining tenure would be short, however, the comment was in response to an inquiry. Aware of criticisms of her designs, and speculation Hedi Slimane was hoping to hop from Celine to Chanel, what was Chanel to say? Of course, it would affirm that she was doing well.

So, what happened between May 21 (the date Chanel praised Viard) and June 5, 2024 that had Viard out the door with Chanel issuing only a terse statement of “thank you.” With the haute couture show only twenty days away, if there was a contract expiration, dispute, or inability to come to terms, that could have waited at least until after the show, at least from Chanel’s perspective. In other words, it seems unlikely that Chanel would dismiss its Creative Director right before a presentation. On the other hand, could Chanel have given Viard a heads up that she was out after the show? Perhaps, although likely not the best HR move. Regardless, the idea that Chanel would dismiss Viard without having its next designer ready to go seems implausible and contrary to company strategy.

Some rumors suggest Viard walked out. Happily at work one minute, and an hour or two later, she was out the door. While the haute couture collection was mostly complete, styling and final details likely were not. Thus far, artisans in her salon are relatively quiet about what happened, if they know. Reportedly, Viard did not say goodbye to many long-term employees. 

As for what it now appears will be Viard’s last Chanel collection, the word on the social media street is that Viard will not attend – not even to take her final bow for the Maison. Whether it is her choice or Chanel’s, who knows? How Chanel addresses her presence or absence this week may well hold clues to why Viard departed so quickly.

What do you think happened?