First presented in the Chanel Spring Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show, the initial reception to the Chanel 22 was…dare we say…mixed! Actually, mixed is pretty generous (See: Everything You Need to Know About the Chanel 22 Bag).

Chanel 22: Once a Hard Pass, Now a Must Have.

Fast forward to 2023, and opinion of the Chanel 22 certainly has changed. Whether credited to the Chanel 22 ad campaign or something else, this much-maligned bag now is popular. It’s almost impossible to scroll through Instagram without seeing the Chanel 22 front and center. Now available in various sizes, including the Mini, which is a PurseBop favorite – it’s becoming increasingly hard to resist.

Chanel 22 Bag in Purple in Shiny Calfskin. Image Credit: Chanel

Once a hard pass, and now a must-have – we explore how the Chanel 22 became Chanel’s most coveted bag of 2023.

Chanel 22 Gets Off to a Rough Start

The Chanel 22 bag didn’t launch without its hiccups. Most notably, the style was far from an immediate hit. In fact, when the Chanel 22 first hit boutiques around March 2022, it received a pretty frosty reaction. The style quickly found itself the subject of some rather heated, and negative, discussions on social media.

Chanel Launches the 22 Campaign. Image Credit: L’Officiel Ibiza

For starters, the Chanel 22 strongly veers from the more structured style of Chanel’s iconic Classic Flaps. Instead, Chanel’s newest model tilts to simplicity – this unstructured sac shape 22 bag features oversized quilting, and is embellished with large gold CHANEL lettering. Although recognizably a Chanel bag, the 22 was not favored by those looking for the classic Chanel vibe.

Image Credit: @voguetaiwan

Image Credit: @voguetaiwan

Furthermore, luxe lovers heavily criticized Chanel’s advertising and promotion strategy. During the launch period of the 22, the luxury house recruited a trio of young Hollywood stars to feature in the campaign. Chanel ambassadors Whitney Peak, Margaret Qualley, and Lily-Rose Depp promoted the much-talked-about Chanel 22. Chanel consistently hyped the bagacross all social media platforms. As a result, it was suggested that Chanel was perhaps trying a little too hard to make the 22 bag a success. Meanwhile, as countless celebrities and influencers around the world were photographed with this bag, the nay-sayers were quick suggest that they only wore it because it was gifted. Ouch.

Margaret Qualley in the Chanel 22 Campaign. Image Credit: AnOther Magazine

And then there was the bag itself, roundly criticized on social media, setting the Chanel 22 launch further off to a rocky start. Not only did critics trash the style, but many compared it to an actual trash bag. Others complained the calfskin leather appeared somewhat ‘cheap’ as it is thinner and shinier. Additionally, some reported that the iconic Chanel hardware was lighter to the touch, and generally less substantial than that on classic bags. Other Chanel fans simply didn’t like the laid-back and casual vibe of the 22.

Image Credit: @ootdnewyork10

Image Credit: @fashionstylistmb

It’s a Catch 22

Chanel strives to create a buzz with each new release, but some devoted fans remain loyal to the iconic Classic Flap bag. This can make it challenging for the brand to promote fresh designs. However, the Chanel 19 was an exception and became popular quickly most likely due to its resemblance to the classic flap bag.

On the other hand, the Chanel 22, which deviates from the timeless designs, faced a difficult position and struggled to gain popularity. The Chanel 22 indeed found itself in a catch-22!

Image Credit: @hannahstraffordtaylor

The Rise of the Chanel 22

So how did the Chanel 22 go from one of the most controversial bags to a must-have?

Once the initial flock of celebrities and influencers subsided from posting their ad campaigns, the broader luxury community began to explore the possibilities of the Chanel 22. Die-hard Chanel fans finally saw the 22 at boutiques, able to explore this new and anticipated design. Those looking to broaden their existing Chanel collections found that the 22 bag was carefree and easy to use. The 22 gained momentum. Gradually, it garnered fans and began its journey from misfit to acceptance and then must-have.

Image Credit: @fionamcl

Image Credit: @lindatol_

With its laid-back and casual aesthetic – the Chanel 22 is both functional and luxurious. Roomy, and practical, the hobo-style design is timeless and looks effortlessly cool slung over a shoulder. Perhaps, the most eye-catching element is the large gold CHANEL lettering adorning the glossy calfskin. When added to the subtle oversize quilted leather, the 22 becomes immediately recognized as from the house of Coco. So much for stealth wealth!

Chanel Large White Calfskin 22. Image Credit: @darjabarannik

Providing a nod to vintage cool, the 22 bag also harkens back to Chanel’s glory days of the 1990s. Included with the bag is a vintage medallion coin charm hanging from its iconic interwoven chain shoulder strap. It’s a blend of modern and classic design, making it a chic and casual everyday bag. And for fans of the aughts, the 22 also bears some resemblance to the more east-west Coco Cabas of the late 2000’s.

Interestingly, and likely intentionally, newer Chanel designs much like the 22 are attracting a younger generation of fans. Gen Z is increasingly interested in luxury fashion at an ever younger age. With prices starting at $5,000 for the mini size, while not inexpensive, it is a much more attainable entry point than the likes of a Classic Flap, now in the five figures.

Image Credit: @fifionaliuu

Image Credit: @fifionaliuu

Along Came the Mini

Over the next year, Chanel introduced variations of the 22. Beyond the initial size options, the bag was reimagined into a practical backpack, and then, most hotly anticipated…along came the small but perfectly formed Chanel 22 Mini Handbag. As a result, that’s where and when the Chanel 22 bag became highly coveted and a must-have.

We’re no stranger to the mini bag obsession here at PurseBop. And you can count PurseBop and crew among proud owners of this latest bag. (Read: The Chanel Bag the PurseBop Girls Couldn’t Leave Paris Without).

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Chanel Rose Gold Metallic 22 Mini.

The mini size can easily carry all your daily essentials and has the bonus of being worn in multiple ways. With the welcome addition of the crossbody shoulder strap, it works as the ideal grab-and-go bag for running errands. While it may appear small – it certainly packs a punch!

Chanel Light Yellow Calfskin Mini 22. Image Credit: @lenaterlutter

From Controversial to Coveted

What a rollercoaster of a ride – from flop to fashionable, at least for this season. Whether the Chanel 22 sustains its current popularity within the luxury world, still remains to be seen. Certainly, this season’s minis are still on the top of many current wishlists. But will the 22 become a true classic? Only time will tell whether casual, functional, and practical are enough to place the Chnael 22 into the brand’s core bag collection.