Coco Chanel’s French fashion house invaded the Northern part of Great Britain for its latest Métiers d’Art 2023/24 collection in the heart of the vibrant city of Manchester on December 7. This marked Chanel’s return to Great Britain after over a decade, making a historic statement amidst Manchester’s rich textile legacy. In a statement before the highly anticipated event, the French fashion house said:
“Chanel has chosen to present the 2023/24 Métiers d’Art show in Manchester, one of the most effervescent cities of pop culture and an avant-garde one, whose bands, spanning all genres, have changed the history of music.”
In the lead-up to the Métiers d’Art 2023/24 runway show, Chanel released cinematic snippets, directed by Sofia Coppola. Set against the beat of ‘Blue Monday’ by New Order, the visuals encapsulated the essence of Manchester’s vibrancy. The slogan “Well, well, well, if it isn’t Manchester does Chanel” by Manchester-born designer Henry Holland reflects the tongue in cheek of the Northern soul. While imagery from Chaos SixtyNine’s ‘The Chanel Manchester Issue’, seamlessly intertwines with a montage celebrating Manchester’s rich cultural history – embodying the spirit of the city. Viard’s perspective beautifully captures the essence of the city’s pop culture, where a multitude of iconic bands emerged, including Joy Division, New Order, Happy Mondays, and Oasis.
Chanel kicked things off with an invitation to a Manchester United v Chelsea football match the night preceding the show. Guests sported personalized No 5 Man U red football jerseys and limited edition ‘MCR’ and camellia-clad football-inspired scarves.
Showtime
As if on cue, the Manchester skies opened up with pouring rain for the Métiers d’Art show. Celebrities and VIP clients, sheltered by umbrellas, gathered on pub-style outdoor seating along Thomas Street – a vibrant red-brick neighborhood, scattered with bars, record shops, and tattoo parlors.
Virginie Viard’s visionary Métiers d’Art collection shone a spotlight on tweed’s timeless appeal, intricately weaving nods to Manchester’s vibrant past. The Northern girl interpretation was meticulously curated, blending a nostalgic nod to the working-class ‘60s-to’80s pop culture. As described by Chanel:
“Alive with a vibrant pop spirit born in Manchester and kept alive across the decades, the Chanel 2023/24 Métiers’Art show embraces the creative dialogue between Great Britain and the house, so dear to Gabrielle Chanel and today to the artistic director of the fashion collections, Virginie Viard. A testimony to the artisanal precision of the Métiers d’Art, the collection shimmers and shines with playful nods to British music culture and Chanel’s art of tailoring. Contrasting autumnal and vivid colors, encrusted textures, pure silhouettes, and carefree attitudes invoke a soft yet audacious femininity.”
The runway dazzled with a tapestry of tweeds, adorned with a sprinkling of houndstooth, and glistening sequin embellishments. The bold infusion of vibrant oranges, blues, pinks, and greens in the color palette paid homage to Manchester’s legendary New Wave club culture, infusing a contemporary edge into these timeless fabrics. Alongside these eye-catching tones, Viard artfully incorporated classic hues like chocolate brown, gray, and black – quintessentially Chanel. Accentuating the looks, models sported iconic Beatle caps, and chic Mary Jane shoes, adding an extra layer of nostalgia to the collection.
The Bags
When it comes to the bags, the iconic Classic Flap commanded attention in a range of sizes, spanning from petite minis to medium editions. Standout pieces included the embellished renditions featuring sequin houndstooth and tweed flaps. Luxurious clutches emerged, crafted in quilted leather and boasting vintage-inspired frame-purse designs. The handbag collection dazzles with metallic accents throughout, while jewel-like tones take center stage, punctuated with the occasional inclusion of autumnal-inspired neutral tones.
Classic Flaps
Classic Flap bags have been given an artful makeover for this Métiers d’Art collection. Once again we see the introduction of the much loved ombré effect – this time round offered in deep raspberry hues, purple, and gray tones.
The tweed Classic Flap bags in this collection effortlessly match the ensembles – ensuring the perfect match. Whether in classic black and white with vibrant touches of yellow, or iconic Chanel red, these bags exude timeless appeal with an added touch of personality.
Top Handle Bags
A new style hits the runway – a seasonal top handle offered in a mini size. Showcased in autumnal patent brown leather, this mini top handle bag resembles that of the new Chanel ‘Kelly’. This petite shopper-style bag comes complete with the iconic turn-lock fastening and a zippered closure. Finished with a dainty top handle and crossbody chain strap, the bag oozes vintage appeal.
Read also: The New Chanel Kelly Bag is Here
Mini tweed top handle bags effortlessly meld with their coordinating ensembles. Take, for instance, the mini vanity case-inspired bag adorned in autumnal shades of brown, featuring a leather base and delicate CC detailing. Meanwhile, the black and white houndstooth mini top handle bag makes a statement with its bold design, complemented by vintage-inspired leather piping detail and petite top handles.
East-West
Chanel’s revival of the East-West silhouette adds a touch of nostalgia to this collection. In this iteration, the elongation surpasses even the original 2000s bag, creating a sleek and elongated profile. The design is finished with a shoulder-length chunky chain strap that extends down the sides elevating the bag’s timeless charm with a contemporary edge.
Other Bags
This bag, showcased on the Métier d’Art runway, shares the same silhouette and construction as the miniature shopping bag but omits the top handle. Presented in supple-grained caviar leather with a rich raspberry tone, it maintains a compact and relaxed shape. Boasting a chain shoulder strap, zippered fastening, and the iconic CC clasp, it was styled as a casual clutch with the versatility to be worn crossbody or on the shoulder.
Featured in a series of photographs captured by Jamie Hawkesworth for the Métiers d’Art campaign, this charming petite frame purse is crafted in sleek black patent leather. Adorned with an oversized pale pink bow gracing the front, the bag stands out for its chunkier chain shoulder strap, infusing a modern twist into this retro-inspired design.
Clutches
The Chanel timeless quilted clutch undergoes a Métier d’Art transformation this season, emerging in a peach-tone lambskin, as well as a delicate pastel pink rendition. Departing from the classic design, this shorter-length clutch draws inspiration from vintage aesthetics, embracing a unique retro charm. Elegantly adorned with the iconic CC clasp, it flaunts a frame-purse silhouette, accentuating its nostalgic appeal.
Minaudière
Tea time arrives in style for Chanel in Manchester! Enter the whimsical tea box, boasting intricate Chanel detailing in a striking black and white design. Crafted with Chanel’s minaudière signature plexi and silver-tone metal accents, the bag is enhanced by delicate touches like the pearl trim. Chic and playful, it’s an absolute must-have addition to any minaudière collection.
What are your thoughts on this Manchester-inspired Métiers d’Art 2023/24 collection? Let us know your top picks.
Updated: December 11th, 2023
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