Chanel's Bag Bonanza: Métiers d'Art 2024/25 in Hangzhou, China

Chanel traveled to Hangzhou to present its Métiers d’Art 2024/25 collection on December 3 against the impressive backdrop of the West Lake. This marked the Maison’s second Métiers d’Art show in China, following the first in Shanghai in 2009 with Lagerfeld at the helm.

Bringing this annual opportunity to showcase the talents of Chanel’s ateliers and artisans to China underscored the continued focus on the growing luxury market there. It also honored the longstanding connection between Hangzhou and brand founder Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel.

In a statement before the event, the French fashion house said:

“By travelling to Hangzhou, China, to present its 2024/25 Métiers d’art collection, the House is exploring an essential component of Gabrielle Chanel’s imagination: the Chinese lacquer screens that inspired her all her life, and that still adorn the walls of her apartment at 31, rue Cambon in Paris. The one in her office depicts the city of Hangzhou and its legendary lake.”

Image courtesy: Chanel

The show also marks the first Métiers d’Art collection since Virginie Viard’s departure in June 2024, fueling widespread speculation about her successor as the new creative director. Yet, the mystery remains unsolved, with Chanel keeping everyone in the dark – figuratively and literally in Hangzhou. The fashion world continues to wait for an announcement that will define Chanel’s future direction.

Image courtesy: Chanel

Showtime

As night descended on Hangzhou, models emerged onto the runway, gliding along a softly lit wooden jetty that stretched across the tranquil waters of West Lake. The atmosphere was dark and mysterious, setting the tone for a collection that opened with elongated black silhouettes. These looks were subtly enlivened by the shimmering textures of Métiers d’Art’s signature woven fabrics and a scattering of sequins.

Image courtesy: Chanel

The collection’s references to Chinese culture were elegant and understated, allowing the artisans’ craftsmanship to take center stage. As the show progressed, the focus shifted to layered ensembles and shorter silhouettes, showcasing a diverse range of designs — from tweeds and delicately embroidered floral motifs to glistening touches of gold. In the words of Chanel:

“Presented at nightfall on the West Lake in Hangzhou, China, the 2024/25 Métiers d’art collection draws its inspiration from Gabrielle Chanel’s Coromandel screens, that she cherished all her life and that still adorn the walls of her apartment in Paris. Embroidered floral motifs, jade green, pink and sky blue colours are a nod to the Chinese lacquered screens and to their brilliance.

Each of the silhouettes reveals a unique sense of detail, both visible and hidden. From phosphorescent braids to long coats in precious tweeds and envelope-shaped pockets, the collection is an invitation to a poetic voyage.”

Image courtesy: Chanel

Image courtesy: Chanel

The Bags

As for the bags, styles ranged from petite handheld vanity cases to oversized bowling bag silhouettes. Notably, larger silhouettes were paired with mini bags throughout to create a layered effect – a trend that continues to dominate the runways this year.

Standout pieces include the Hobo Bag, introduced in the Cruise 2024/25 collection and reimagined in fresh fabrications, as well as new two-tone styles inspired by Chanel’s iconic footwear. Adding to the mysterious and dream-like atmosphere were satin-silk pillow-like bags in pastel hues and celestial-inspired Minaudières.

As is typical of the Métiers d’Art collection, the focus was on fabrics and textures – alongside classic leather, there were glossy patent finishes, embellishments, metallics, colored satins, and suede.

Image courtesy: Chanel

Now, let’s take a closer look at the handbags…

Bowling Bags

First to grace the runway was a series of bowling bag styles, ranging from spacious carry-alls to more practical, everyday options – each design was styled with a mini bag. Featuring an all-over quilted design, this roomy silhouette was styled handheld with its double top handles, while chain shoulder straps draped alongside.

The larger sizes boast multiple zippered compartments, and were showcased in crinkled black patent leather and grained leather, alongside a patent brown iteration – all paired with gold-tone hardware.

Another style featured a classic barrel-like silhouette. With double top handles, long chain shoulder straps, and a CC detail on the front, this bag was presented in white, patent light gray, and black.

Hobo Bags

A standout from the Maison’s Cruise 2024/25 runway in Marseille, Chanel’s new Hobo silhouette returned for the Métiers d’Art 2024/25 show. This time, it’s reimagined in metallic bronze leather, beige-grained leather, and a tweed version with metallic accents.

A new design also appeared — a statement two-tone tote, inspired by Chanel’s iconic beige and black footwear. This slouchy bag features a quilted beige suede upper, paired with a quilted black base and handle – void of any padding. Finished with a curved buckle detail top handle, drawstring-style chain detail, and CC turn-lock to the front, it was shown handheld on the runway in a range of sizes –each paired with a micro or mini bag.

A similar design also appeared in sleek all-black leather with quilting detail in two sizing variations.

Image courtesy: Red

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Not far from these hobo-inspired silhouettes, was the smaller black quilted suede design. This version retains the same shoulder strap with a buckle and chain drawstring but adds a tassel detail for a touch of vintage-inspired bucket-bag charm. Each of these designs was paired with patent mini bags or SLGs for extra impact on the runway.

A smaller iteration of the same design was also presented, in a quilted metallic burgundy shade, paired with gold-tone hardware.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Mini's

Mini bags were big, appearing not only as pint-sized clutches and vanities but also as accessories to larger silhouettes. Styled alongside hobo totes and bowling bags, these tiny bags added an extra layer of detail.

Most notable was the micro-sized Classic Flap, perfectly downsized yet retaining iconic Chanel features, including the turn-lock closure, double-chain shoulder strap, and double flap design. Spotted in light blue, metallic gold, burgundy, white, and light pink.

Image courtesy: Red

Another slightly larger mini design brought a touch of 2.55 flair. This white mini (also presented in burgundy), accompanying a bowling bag, featured signature elements from the iconic 2.55, including the Mademoiselle lock and bijoux chain.

Classic Flap & 2.55 Handbag

Transitioning from petite versions to classic iterations, the Métiers d’Art collection showcased artistic transformations of the Maison’s most iconic handbags. Reimagined in opulent styles, some featured intricate floral motifs, while others dazzled with sequin-adorned tweeds.

Joining the Classic Flap, Gabrielle Chanel’s iconic 2.55 handbag appeared on the runway in the petite chic mini size. One version was in black leather, while the other featured rich Black velvet — both complemented by gold-tone hardware.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Satin Bags

Satin played a prominent role throughout the collection, as handbags were paired with intricate silk two-piece ensembles. Echoing the style of the iconic Chanel 22, this new design features an oversized quilted pattern and chain shoulder straps. Styled on the runway, the soft, pillow-like bag was clutched under the arm and was showcased in black as well as pastel shades, including pale pistachio and canary yellow.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Bucket Bags

Fresh bucket bag styles were showcased on the runway. The first featured a unique construction with pleating that mimics the delicate creases of a fan, adding texture to its otherwise flat quilted leather body. Secured with a drawstring fastening, this bag was presented in classic black leather and white suede. While carried by the top handle on the runway, it also includes a chain shoulder strap for added versatility.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Blending elements of a bucket bag and a wristlet, the next design features smooth lambskin leather panels. Devoid of all-over quilting, except for a panel to the top, this bag relies on subtle Chanel codes to make its heritage recognizable. Adorned with a small CC detail, a vintage-inspired tassel hanging from the base, and a chain wristlet, this sleek design exudes understated Chanel vibes.

Satchel

Continuing the two-tone trend, a small satchel-style bag was showcased in the same beige suede and black leather fabrication as the new hobo style. This design is secured with a turn-lock fastening and boasts a more structured silhouette.

Vanity Bags & Other Mini’s

Vanity bags repeatedly appeared in this collection, in mini and small sizes. Each design is distinguished by a top handle and complemented by a delicate chain shoulder strap. Some take the form of zip-around vanity styles, while others echo the boxy silhouettes of the Box Bag from the Fall-Winter 2024 lineup—albeit in drastically smaller proportions.

Image courtesy: @chanelofficial

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

While not styled alongside larger bags, a familiar design from Chanel, the curved top-handle mini bag makes a return, this time even more compact. Loosely inspired by the curve of a fortune cookie, this mini bag was presented in quilted white, beige, and gold leather, as well as tweed, all versions feature the signature gold-tone chain detailing.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Clutch Bags

An interesting new clutch silhouette, this semi-cylindrical bag was showcased in both cream leather and satin. Featuring oversized quilting, the top-handle bag boasts a zip-top closure and appears to have a detachable shoulder strap for added versatility.

Adding to the lineup, a slightly larger iteration of the design in black quilted lambskin leather was styled effortlessly on the arm of the model with its top handle.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

The collection included classic handheld clutches like the black quilted leather box clutch. On the runway, this style was adorned with a quilted metal gold-tone embellishment and finished with a CC enamel detail.

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Image courtesy: Vogue Runway

Minaudières

Surprisingly, for a Métiers d’Art 2024/25 collection, only two Minaudières made their way down the runway. Both embraced celestial themes – one, a delicate silver star adorned with crystal CC embellishments, reminiscent of Viard’s Spring-Summer 2023 star-shaped Minaudières, while the other reimagined Chanel’s signature sphere design in gold, covered in dazzling crystal stars.