Nearly a year has passed since Pharrell Williams showcased his debut collection as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear. Under Williams’ leadership, Louis Vuitton’s iconic 128-year-old monogram canvas has been revitalized with vibrant reinterpretations, reflecting his innovative vision.
Read also: Pharrell’s Debut at Louis Vuitton Men’s 2024 Spring Summer: A Look at the LoVers Bags
However, Williams is not the first to reinvent this historic symbol. Crafted in 1896, 42 years after the Maison began, it is only in the last 35 years that Louis Vuitton creative directors began transforming the hallmark design.
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
Behind the Monogram
Behind the interlocking L and V and the quatrefoil flowers was Georges Vuitton, the son of Louis Vuitton. Initially created to deter imitators, the brown-on-brown monogram has become the brand’s signature and one of fashion’s most recognizable prints.
Image courtesy: Vogue
Modern Monogram Icons
LV monogram transformation began when Marc Jacobs became Creative Director in 1997. Jacobs debuted the Monogram Vernis collection before pushing the boundaries even further in the early 2000s. In 2003, he launched a collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, who introduced the iconic Monogram Multicolore. This version featured 33 different colors on a black or white coated canvas backdrop, replacing the brand’s classic brown print and setting a precedent for future collaborative designs.
Takashi Murakami X Louis Vuitton, 2003. Image courtesy: Louis Vuitton via Vogue
Several more collections followed suit, including the Cherry Blossom, Panda, Cerises, and Monogramouflage –each injecting a playful twist on the brand’s iconic signature design.
Takashi Murakami X Louis Vuitton, Monogramouflage.
Then there’s the Stephen Sprouse collaboration, still highly coveted to this day. After much convincing by Jacobs, the fashion house allowed Stephen Sprouse to create a graffiti design of Vuitton’s monogram. Graphic ‘Louis Vuitton’ and ‘LV’ were painted all over the traditional brown-on-brown print – the first time the monogram has ever been updated entirely, marking a significant turning point for the brand.
Image courtesy: @thebirkinboy
In 2014, Nicolas Ghesquière added his own vision to the LV logo, marking another new chapter for the brand. Ghesquière twisted the monogram into a graphic pattern with a retro flair, introducing a velvet finish that added a tactile richness far removed from the durable coated canvas. This fresh approach distorted the letters and symbols’ crisp, clean lines, offering a somewhat distorted appearance, with an almost hand-drawn appeal.
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2014. Image courtesy: Vogue
Designers on the men’s side have added their interpretations to the logo as well. In 2018, Virgil Abloh was named artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear, a creative reign that lasted nearly four years until [his untimely death in] 2021. Abloh’s pioneering vision breathed new life into the brand’s menswear collections, introducing an innovative aesthetic that fused art and fashion. Notably, his final collection featured a blurry monogram, distorting the original aesthetic into a dizzying surrealist pattern.
Virgil Abloh’s Blurry Monogram. Louis Vuitton Fall 2022. Image courtesy: Runway Magazine.
Following in Virgil’s footsteps Pharrell Williams. Appointed as the new men’s creative director in February 2023, Williams quickly introduced his take on the brand’s timeless monogram. Big and bold has been the aim since his debut, introducing an all-new silkscreen monogram process on the coveted Speedy P9 Bandoulière. Reimagined in a rainbow of shades, the Speedy P9’s monogram takes inspiration from the candy-colored designer imitations that line Canal Street sidewalks.
Read also: The Speedy P9: Pharrell Williams’ LV Vision
Speedy P9 Bandoulière
Pharrell’s reinterpretations of the monogram haven’t stopped there. He joined forces with Tyler, the Creator, celebrated for his music, style, and everything in between. Together, they created a capsule collection revolving around the brand’s latest monogram, entitled Monogram Craggy. This hand-drawn reimagination of the classic LV monogram features a multicolor theme, reminiscent of Takashi Murakami’s designs, on either a chocolate or vanilla-colored backdrop. The star of the show, however, is Tyler’s Airedale Terrier which sits at the center of this new monogram design – it’s hard to resist.
Read also: Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton Unveils Tyler x LV
Louis Vuitton x Tyler, The Creator. Image courtesy: ShowStudio
Monogram 101: A Chat with LV Lover Rachel Hatley
Meet Rachel Hatley, a passionate handbag enthusiast hailing from London and now based in Brighton. With a keen eye for the latest trends and a genuine love for style, Rachel brings a wealth of knowledge to the world of fashion. From exploring vintage Louis Vuitton to admiring Pharrell’s latest creations, Rachel offers valuable insights into the world of luxury accessories.
Join us as we get to know @rachelyvonnehatley, her handbags, wish lists, and all things LV.
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
Can you tell us about your journey as a Louis Vuitton enthusiast? What initially drew you to the brand, and how has your relationship with Louis Vuitton evolved?
From my mid-teens, Louis Vuitton had been a brand that was on my radar. Perhaps one of the first big fashion house names any budding style enthusiast learns. Over the years, it was the history of the brand itself that really got me hooked. Their long history as one of the best luggage and handbag brands in the world drew me in instantly. As I started to develop my handbag collection, it was evident Louis Vuitton was going to play a huge part and as I got to learn about the stand-out collections over the years, I only wanted more.
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
Do you have a standout Louis Vuitton runway collection that has left a lasting impression on you?
Am I allowed to pick a top 3? The SS18 show was the first LV show I watched and wanted to buy items from. I remember my jaw dropping to the floor when I saw the combination of 18th-century style military jackets paired with the insane Archlight trainers which blew my mind at the time. I wanted them so badly. I think before then, designer bags and small leather goods had been my obsessions and although I loved clothes and styling, actually buying designer clothes hadn’t crossed my mind. This show started that obsession. Then the AW22 show became the main feature on all my moodboards. I recreated look one for a reel on my Instagram. It completely encapsulated my style at the time. Lastly, SS23 was so different and unique from anything anyone else did that year. I call this the Alice in Wonderland show because everything was so oversized on the models, they looked like they’d fallen into some sort of dreamland or doll house where the proportions were all off but it all still worked. This is probably my favorite show from Ghesquiere’s era at the house.
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2018
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2022
Which piece in your Louis Vuitton lineup holds the most special place within your collection?
Without a doubt, it’s my Takashi Murakami lodge bag from the Marc Jacobs era of the house. This is the most prized handbag in my whole collection. I got it secondhand and finding it was like finding treasure. I couldn’t believe what I was holding and knew I wasn’t leaving the shop without it. It’s perhaps the most beautiful bag I’ve ever seen!
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
Among Louis Vuitton’s collaborations with artists and designers, which one stands out to you the most, and why?
I have such a huge place in my heart for the Takashi Murakami collection, the amount of pieces and prints in that collection are unbelievable. I think the multi-colour monogram and the cherry print are my favourites from the collection.
Image courtesy: @_kerrylockwood_
With your recent addition of the Louis Vuitton Speedy, what influenced your choice to opt for the Bandoulière style? How have you been styling this piece?
From the moment I decided to add the heritage piece to my collection right up to one week before purchasing it, I only wanted the classic speedy, without the bandoulière strap and design. I knew I was going to get the piece secondhand and assumed the classic Speedy would be cheaper plus I had wanted the original style for so long. It wasn’t until I went to the Louis Vuitton store to try on the speedy and ensure I was making the right decision that I was swayed to the bandoulière. The addition of the strap and the multiple ways you can use it changed everything. You can have the strap long, mid-length or remove the extender piece to have a high-up crossbody strap, which is my preferred way of wearing it. You can also remove the strap completely and have it the classic top handle way. Suddenly I had so many options. That week, one became available at my favorite secondhand designer store in Brighton, Rebound. The owner messaged me before it went live as she knew I was on the hunt for one and the price was over half off of that in-store, despite it only being a couple of years old and barely used. I snapped it up instantly!
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
Sticking to the Speedy theme. . .If you were to invest in any limited edition Speedy, what would be your dream bag?
It would have to be the Stephen Sprouse graffiti speedy in the dark green, it would be such a dream to finally own!
Do you have a preference for purchasing new or pre-loved?
I adore both. Buying secondhand gives me the opportunity to buy discontinued handbags I’d otherwise not be able to get now plus I save so much money! I also love those items that have a previous life before me, such as my speedy 25. I bought that secondhand and mentioned on my Instagram where I got it from. A follower messaged me to say it was her speedy that she sold to that store! It was a full-circle moment! But there’s something about the experience of going into the store and buying new. It’s special. I also love the new collections at the moment and wouldn’t want to resign myself to secondhand only and therefore miss out on them. I’m a true collector and if a piece needs to be in my collection, I’ll save up for it.
Are there any bags from Pharrell’s collections that have caught your eye?
If I had a spare £9k I’d already have one of the all leather speedy’s without a doubt. The light blue one from his most recent collection made my heart stop for a second.
Image courtesy: @the.webcloud
What initially drew you to the Tyler, the Creator X Louis Vuitton collection? And which specific items made it to your wishlist?
I truly felt like this collection was made for me. I can’t describe it. Sometimes a collection comes out that just encapsulates where you are in your style journey at that moment in time. The reimagination of the monogram for the collection is perfect, so cartoony and reminiscent of the Murakami version. The addition of the little dog and le fleur motif from his brand makes so much sense. Every clothing item, shoe and leather good spoke to me. Plus, owning something from the collection meant it would be my first Pharell piece. So I’d have items from the Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière and Pharell eras of the house.
Image courtesy: @feliciathegoat
Image courtesy: @feliciathegoat
With the Tyler collab in mind, could you share your latest purchase?
I managed to pre-order the pocket organizer which I hope to be the start of a pocket organizer collection in itself. The piece is perfect, it shows the reimagined monogram perfectly and is a great starter piece or addition to any collection.
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
What’s your next move for expanding your Louis Vuitton collection? Are there any more vintage purchases on the horizon?
I think the Steven Sprouse items are next on my LV hit list. I’d also love a fabric piece either the cloth croissant bag from the 00’s or anything from the original denim collection. I understand they re-released the denim collection at the start of the year with some original pieces and some brand-new items. However, I’d love an original from when Marc Jacobs first released it. The NeoSpeedy or Pleaty are my top two to get.
Image courtesy: @marianne_theodorsen
Finally, for those looking to make their first LV purchase, do you have any insights or advice on where to begin and what to consider?
I’d start with small leather goods, that way you can check out the variety of different leather options LV offers such as Epi, Empreinte, and the canvases. For me, the 6 Ring Key Holder was a game changer. I already had some Louis Vuitton bags by then but honestly, that piece has been one of my best purchases of all time. It gets battered daily in my bags, in my hands and as it opens the numerous doors it helps me unlock daily. Eight years later, the key holder in Empreinte leather is still going strong.
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
When you’re ready to move onto bags, I recommend the Speedy 25 as a heritage piece, or at the moment, the new Low Key Hobo bag is my favorite. It’s so sleek and simple in design and seems as though it would hold everything without being clunky.
Image courtesy: @rachelyvonnehatley
Be sure to follow Rachel on Instagram @rachelyvonnehatley for styling tips and fashion content, and stay tuned to her YouTube channel for her latest unboxing videos.
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One handbag at a time, Avec Anna.
Updated: June 14th, 2024
Comments
1 Responses to “The Many Monograms of Louis Vuitton”
I am interested in the graphic/ and the griphitryy