As an avid admirer of Phoebe Philo’s era at Celine, I couldn’t help but anticipate the next chapter in this fashion icon’s journey. Philo’s influence on the industry during her nine-year reign as creative director at Celine was undeniable, setting a precedent for modern, understated luxury.

Image courtesy: @voguerunway

Fast forward to October 2023, and with the unveiling of her long-awaited eponymous brand, I was intrigued to see the evolution of Philo’s designs. I couldn’t help but wonder how her new creations would both differ and retain the quintessential essence that made her Céline collections so iconic, especially when it comes to the bags…

The A1 Collection

The ‘A1’ collection by Phoebe Philo exudes timelessness and cool-girl appeal. A true testament to Philo’s mastery of understated luxury, the line is built on the foundation of elevated basics. It features everything from luxurious everyday knits to menswear-inspired tailoring and a handful of dresses. As always with Philo, products are intentionally devoid of logos and visible branding. Therefore the focus remains on the simplicity and elegance of the designs. The color palette, as expected, is mainly neutral, offering chic and wearable options in black, brown, and gray, with the occasional pop of vibrant red.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

However, let’s address the elephant in the room – Philo’s new quiet luxury comes at screaming high prices. With bags ranging from $3,500 up to $8,500, it’s quite a departure from previous Celine collections, where larger bags such as the Phantom retailed for $3,100, and the large Trio priced at $1,200. This leads me to wonder – who is Phoebe Philo targeting with prices approaching five figures? Although we can assume that the quality and craftsmanship are top-notch, the e-commerce-only platform may raise concerns. Customers may continue to seek the tactile experience of in-person shopping, especially at such a high price point. However, it’s worth noting, that since the launch, much of the collection, including the bags, has already proven to be a sell-out success.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

A1 Handbags

Now, let’s take a closer look at the new collection’s bags. Boasting just three distinct models – the XL Cabas, Gigi, and Small Kit Cabas, Phoebe Philo’s signature minimalist aesthetic endures. Available in a variety of textures and leathers, these bags effortlessly encapsulate that unmistakable French chic style, synonymous with Philo’s designs. While they all represent fresh perspectives, the connection to Philo’s days at Celine is evident.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

XL Cabas

Where Phoebe Philo goes, the classic Cabas follows. Among the new additions is the XL Cabas bag, a true tribute to the original Celine Cabas series. After all, who doesn’t love a timeless tote?

XL Cabas in Black. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Offered in smooth calf leather, the XL Cabas embraces a generous size, with dimensions measuring 10.8 x 22.6 x 16.1 inches. Its soft, unstructured silhouette, retains the elegant simplicity of the classic Celine Big Bag while upsizing and removing design elements such as the tie detailing.

Image courtesy: @nisi

XL Cabas. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Celine Big Bag. Image courtesy: @hhiidemi

Designed with two top handles, the XL Cabas epitomizes the classic open-top tote bag style that was synonymous with Philo’s Celine era. These open-top totes were distinguished by their simplicity and understated appeal – clean lines without branding or hardware, in a design that looks even better with use. The XL Cabas design seems to follow this formula, in an oversized form, with the addition of a small silver-tone dog-clip closure. The XL Cabas in the A1 collection is available in black and chocolate brown calf leather and retails for an eye-watering $8,500 – making it the most expensive bag from Philo’s debut.

XL Cabas in Chocolate Brown. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

There’s a suede variation of the XL Cabas too, priced at $8,200, available in toffee and black. The suede offerings feature black calf leather detailing along the outer seams, as well as the handles. Boasting a classic rectangular tote shape, the XL Cabas in suede softens to a much more relaxed silhouette due to its fabrication.

XL Cabas in Toffee & Black Suede. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Gigi

In the world of Phoebe Philo’s new collection, the all-new Gigi bag is a welcome addition. Crafted entirely in supple calf leather and lined with suede, the Gigi bag offers a soft and slouchy silhouette.

Gigi Bag. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

As always, form and function is a core element of Philo’s designs. Due to its unstructured form, the Gigi offers ample space for daily essentials, and its adjustable shoulder strap can be worn at two different lengths. Unfortunately, it appears as though the Gigi is strictly a shoulder bag offering, and cannot be worn crossbody.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

The Gigi is finished with tonal stitching, silver hardware, and a leather tie on the sides which add that final flair. Currently offered in bright white, classic black, and rich oxblood, the Gigi is priced at $3,500 – making it the most price-accessible option in the entire handbag collection.

Gigi. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Looking at Philo’s new Gigi, my thoughts turn to Céline’s classic Trio. The timeless crossbody bag comprises three detachable pouches that can easily be modified into a clutch. Although the new Gigi bag is a solo act, the tri-sectioned bag is reminiscent of this much-loved design. Coming in at a modest 12.2 x 10.2 x 3.5 inches, the Gigi stands as the most compact offering in the A1 collection, though still ever so slightly larger than the original large Celine Trio.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Celine Trio. Image courtesy: @minimal.say

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Celine Trio. Image courtesy: @emmahill

Small Kit Cabas

Another classic Cabas offering is the Small Kit Cabas bag. Perhaps the most detailed handbag in the entire A1 collection, the Small Kit Cabas is the ultimate hybrid of classic Celine and all-new Phoebe Philo.

Small Kit Cabas in Calf Leather. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

The Small Kit Cabas comes in two material options – calf leather in chocolate brown and black, priced at $4,300, and a calf hair variation available in the same colorways for $4,800. Measuring 15.6 x 8.6 x 5.5 inches, the Small Kit Cabas offers a compact yet accommodating size.

Small Kit Cabas in Calf Hair. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Experimenting with textures, prints, colors, and fabrics has been a recurring theme since Philo’s Celine bags, and remains true today. The Small Kit Cabas in calf hair is suggestive of the Celine All Soft bag, which was reimagined in pony skin with contrasting leather details.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Celine All-Soft Bag

In the spirit of minimalism, Philo’s attention to detail remains and shines through in the Small Kit Cabas. Notably, this design includes delicate leather tie detailing on the sides – much like the Celine Tri-Fold from 2016, and the 2017 Soft Cabas Phantom bag. These carefully thought-out design elements serve as nostalgia while offering a fresh take.

Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Celine Soft Cabas Phantom Bag. Image courtesy: @spaulsen

Small Kit Cabas. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Celine Tri-Fold

Among the trio of handbags in the A1 collection handbag, the Small Kit Cabas stands out as the sole creation adorned with a silver-tone badge lock closure. The elegant and unbranded rectangular hardware adds a touch of sophistication. These discreet yet discerning details are a hallmark of Phoebe Philo’s designs, and add a true touch of refinement to these understated yet luxurious bags.

Small Kit Cabas. Image courtesy: Phoebe Philo

Despite the great anticipation of the release of Phoebe Philo’s debut collection, many will be left feeling a little uninspired. What are your thoughts on the A1 collection, do you like the subtle nod to Philo’s Celine era? Or do the higher price points leave you seeking alternatives? Let us know your thoughts on this release.

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Written by Anna for PurseBop