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Secrets of the Hermès Game: Fact or Fiction?

Read also: Rumor or Fact: Hermès is Changing the Rules

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Hermès Keeps Us Guessing

Still dreaming of a Hermés Birkin or Kelly? We regret to inform you that it’s not getting any easier. In reality, the process of acquiring a Birkin or Kelly continues to elude many, excite others, and frustrate most. Whether for your first (or next) Hermès quota bag, it remains challenging to discern what you actually need to do. Rarely is it possible to simply walk into the boutique, ask, and get your desired item. Adding to the difficulty is the ever-growing demand for these handbags. Especially since the Pandemic, the supply has not increased proportionally. 

Yet, the Hermès boutique shopping experience has changed, something that we noted nearly two years ago. You may recall that in early 2022 we reported that shopping at Hermès was beginning to feel different. As it turns out, almost everything we shared then based on rumor and speculation, has turned out to be accurate. We urge you to read our article from last year.  Rumor Or Fact: Hermès is Changing the Rules

Changes we experienced in 2022 included the expansion of what is considered a quota bag (all bags using the name Kelly, Constance bags, exotic non-quota bags), the number of quota bags permitted each year (one or two), global linking of the systems with Paris and beyond, who gets offered a Special Order opportunity, and limiting customers to one bag style in the wish list system.

So what’s a Hermès handbag lover to do now? Taking all of this into account, below are tips, suggestions, and information sourced with the help of our loyal community members to assist in the quest for your next Birkin or Kelly bag.

Image courtesy @jns.ake

For starters, it would be so much easier if Hermès would just publish a list of the steps necessary to purchase a quota bag. Alas, that does not exist and likely never will. While boutiques, Sales Managers, and Sales Associates may have guidelines from corporate for offering these bags, Hermès is notoriously tightlipped about them. And for good reason as there are often exceptions, selective applications, and boutique specific modifications. This can be extremely frustrating for anyone who wants to follow the playbook since it varies from location to location.

But there also may be more going on than just setting standards for individual boutiques – like your home store – to follow. Many of the changes suggested for boutiques worldwide are now, for the first time, being instituted at the three Paris locations as well. 

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Changes In Paris

Shopping at the Hermès Paris boutiques seemingly has changed more than at any other locale. Historically, the three boutiques in Paris (FSH, Sevres, George V) were virtually the only locations you could visit, get a leather appointment (either through the online lottery system or as a walk-in), and walk out with a Birkin or Kelly on the same day. No pre-spend, no relationship with one SA, no waiting required. Paris was the great equalizer for all Hermès lovers, new and old. Those days may be history.

Read:

Dear PurseBop: Why Can’t I Score a Hermès Quota Bag in Paris Like All My Friends

photo courtesy @haute_edition

In the past year our community members have reported that it is nearly impossible to obtain an online appointment through the lottery system. We have heard estimates of 10,000 – 40,000 online requests received each day for approximately 100-300 appointment slots. Some community members have been lucky to be granted an appointment, but not all of them walked out with a quota bag.

Read:

Emily in Paris Gets A Leather Appointment

Sometimes Hermès Dreams Do Come True in Paris

photo courtesy @kaori_05020_

Online Appointments for Paris Boutiques

Recently, we received reports that customers are no longer able to apply for a Paris online appointment from their home location outside of Paris. To explain, travelers often begin applying for an appointment online days before leaving for Paris, or as they are boarding their flight. Now, however, the system seems to block these requests. It is not yet clear whether other locations in Europe and beyond are restricted as well, or whether you must be physically in France or Paris to apply for an appointment. This is a very recent new development. 

Additionally, the communication about your online request has changed. In the past, you could expect an email acknowledging your request, now you may or may not receive one. Of course, if you are granted an appointment you will receive a notification, including the time, generally in the evening of the day you apply.

But what happens if you don’t receive a formal rejection? Previously most people received either a rejection or confirmation of an appointment. Now, however, the rejection may be silent; that is, no formal notification. It seems Hermès has stopped – or is phasing out – sending rejection emails. Emails are sent mainly if you are granted an appointment for the next business day.

Smartphone confirmation of Paris appointment registration.

Walk-in Appointments for Paris Boutiques

Many visitors inquire at the leather desk in Paris for a walk-in leather appointment. Generally, the initial Hermès response is to provide a card directing customers to the online appointment system. But going beyond that, sometimes the SA will inquire what type of bag is requested. If the answer is a Birkin or Kelly many report recently being told that an online appointment is necessary for any quota or “iconic” bag request. 

Similarly, others have reported that if they are granted a “walk-in” leather appointment, the SA may only offer a non-quota bag or possibly a Constance. They too have been told that a Birkin or Kelly is reserved for online appointments.

photo courtesy @msrach_

Hermès Pre-Spend

Historically, Paris was the only location where you could score a Birkin or Kelly with zero prespend. It was a place of luck where anyone could try their hand. With possible rare exceptions, those days may be over. 

We have multiple reports that having a spend profile in Paris can be very beneficial when requesting a bag. In fact, the more you spend, the more sizes and styles of bags may be available to you. But even with substantial purchasing, scoring a coveted mini Kelly, Birkin 25, or Kelly 25 is becoming more and more difficult. 

Unlike the U.S. and other locations, the non-leather SA’s in the three boutiques in Paris are assigned to work in a specific department within the store such as shoes, ready to wear (RTW), silks, fine jewelry, etc. Technically, the non-leather specialists are unable to offer a client a leather bag unless they obtain special manager approval. There are designated leather specialists who see clients with leather appointments. We have heard on rare occasions that clients who have shopped extensively with one SA were granted permission to offer their client a leather bag. Just note that this is an exceptional situation and seems to be more and more infrequent.

photo courtesy @chitzabelle

photo courtesy @_m1ca_

What Is Considered A Quota Bag In Paris

In Paris, Birkins and Kellys are quota bags. Constance bags are not but at times the SA will not permit a client to purchase a quota bag and a Constance in the same appointment. Other times we have heard it was permitted. Kelly Pochettes are not quota bags in Paris. However, sometimes a SA is unable to allow a client to purchase a Birkin or Kelly and a Kelly Pochette in the same appointment. A choice must be made thereby treating the Kelly Pochette like a quota bag without calling it a quota bag. 

In addition, the Kelly Elan, Kelly Picto Doll, and other special limited edition bags are not technically quota bags. However, it is unlikely you will be permitted to purchase a Birkin or Kelly at the same appointment you receive a limited edition bag.

photo courtesy @sonnetsofsilk

Two Leather Appointments In Paris

More than one community member has reported receiving a non-quota bag from their SA while shopping for other items in one of the boutiques in Paris. However, they also found it affected their ability to purchase a quota bag later. In these situations, they were fortunate to receive an online appointment through the lottery system the next day. Upon arriving for the online appointment they admitted purchasing a non-quota bag the day prior. As a result, they were informed that they could not be offered a quota bag at this appointment.  It appears that in Paris one may not be offered two leather bags in consecutive appointments.

photo @pursebop

What Is Considered A Quota Bag In the U.S.

The definition of quota bags in the United States seems different than in Paris. Our sources note that in the U.S. each boutique is independently able to determine which styles are considered quota bags. Usually the Managing Director makes this determination based on the size of the store, the number of customers, how competitive the store is, how many SA’s are employed at the location, and additional factors. Some locations consider any bag with the word Kelly in the title a quota bag. This would include Kelly Pochette, Kelly Danse, Kelly Cut, and Kelly To Go. Constance bags at many locations are considered quota bags as well. Other stores consider these Kelly and Constance bags to be quota bags only in exotic leathers.

Limited edition bags such as the Kelly en Desordre, Kelly Elan, and Kelly Picto Doll also may or may not be considered quota bags. Or they may be treated as quota bags even if they are not. In effect, if you are offered a limited edition bag, you may not be offered another quota bag for several months or possibly the rest of the year. 

photo courtesy @ploveynec

Many U.S. locations, due to limited supply of all leather bags, may only allow a customer one or two leather bags per year whether quota or non-quota. And some locations have instituted a one quota bag per year rule as well. 

It is best to ask your home store SA what bags are considered quota bags and how many leather bags are permitted each year.

photo courtesy @karenzpurses

Wish List System In the U.K.

Across the pond, there’s a different protocol in the United Kingdom. Hermès U.K. boutiques instituted a wish list system several years ago. We understand that parts of Asia and possibly some EU countries follow the wish list system as well. 

According to our community members’ recent experiences, local U.K. clients who have an established relationship with a SA are permitted to place a wish list into the system. There are specific guidelines which change periodically. Below is our most recent up to date information.

A wish list may specify one type of bag, either a Birkin or Kelly, but not both. The client must also specify the size, style, color, hardware and leather. Only one choice is permissible. The wish list is valid for 12 months and can be renewed when it expires.

Once submitted, the list is sent to a central team which manages and disperses the bag to the client. The SA has no input on when or if the bag gets offered. The client receives an email when it is available. There is no obligation to purchase the bag, but the bag must be claimed within the time specified.

There are conflicting reports on whether prespend is required to place a wish list. Some say no prespend is required while others say prespend is necessary.

Read:

The Hermès UK Wish list Process: A Reader Shares Her Experience

photo courtesy @mrs_bcworld

Final Thoughts

Hermès certainly keeps its fans on their toes. Indeed, perhaps part of the allure of shopping at Hermès is the unknown and wanting what you cannot readily acquire. Whether referred to as guidelines, requirements, suggestions, or rumors, Hermès, as a company, will never admit or deny any of this. Sometimes individual SAs will provide more guidance. And at times the information is incorrect or inaccurate because it has changed or been misinterpreted. One thing is consistent: Hermès remains private about the allocation process of its quota bags.

For anyone hoping to purchase a Birkin or Kelly at the Hermès boutique, educate yourself about the brand, only purchase  items you love and will use, respect your SA and the information they provide, approach the process with grace, and understand these luxury items are in high demand. Nothing is guaranteed.

Share your shopping experiences in Paris and at your home store with us. Have you experienced a change in the shopping experience over the past year?

photo courtesy @stylishsheba

Read Related Articles:

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Published: December 2nd, 2023
Updated: December 4th, 2023