The wait is finally over. After months of speculation, Chanel officially appointed Matthieu Blazy as its new Artistic Director on Thursday, December 12, marking a defining moment for the iconic French fashion house. Best known for his hugely successful three-year tenure at Bottega Veneta, Blazy will now oversee all Chanel fashion, couture, and accessories, with his debut collection set to premiere during Paris Fashion Week in October 2025.
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Ahead of the announcement, Bruno Pavlovsky shared with BoF the vision behind the choice:
“We didn’t choose Matthieu to just ‘do Chanel,’ we chose him so he could push the boundaries of what Chanel is, for the future. He will bring his modernity, his way of working – Chanel is ready to be let itself be transported.”
Blazy’s appointment has been met with strong endorsements from those who know the brand best. Alain Wertheimer, Chanel’s global executive chairman, and Leena Nair, the global CEO, jointly stated:
“Matthieu is one of the most gifted designers of his generation. His vision and talent will reinforce the energy of the brand and our position as a leader in luxury. Under Bruno Pavlovsky’s leadership, we are confident that Matthieu Blazy will continue to shape what’s next and write a new page in Chanel’s creation.”
Blazy inherits a fashion house with a storied history and legacy of visionary leadership. In Chanel’s 114 years, only three creatives have shaped its evolution – Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, and Virginie Viard. Lagerfeld, who helmed the house for 36 years, transformed Chanel into a global cultural powerhouse. Viard, who had been Lagerfeld’s right hand for decades, stepped down after the Cruise 2024/25 collection. Now, Blazy faces the challenge of honoring this legacy while adding his own vision to Chanel’s future.
Unlike some of the rumored competition for the Chanel role, such as Marc Jacobs, Simon Porte Jacquemus, John Galliano, and Thom Browne, Blazy does not have a namesake line of his own. Speculation is that this played a role in Chanel’s decision, as it avoids a potential conflict of interest.
Matthieu Blazy’s rise to the top has been anything but conventional. A Paris native, he honed his craft in the ateliers of some of the world’s most prestigious fashion houses, including John Galliano, Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Céline, Calvin Klein, and Maison Martin Margiela. Despite this impressive resume, Blazy remained a “fashion ghost” of sorts — known for his behind-the-scenes contributions rather than public recognition. In fact, New York Magazine dubbed him “the most famous designer you’ve never heard of” in 2014.
It was his tenure at Bottega Veneta, beginning in 2021, that propelled Blazy into the spotlight. There, he streamlined the design team to ensure ideas were never lost and involved artisans in every conversation, fostering collaboration at every step. Blazy masterfully blended innovation with traditional craftsmanship, quickly establishing himself as one of fashion’s most exciting talents. His approach to design is hands-on, much like Lagerfeld’s – relying on tactile experiences and visual cues, rather than digital tools. Piles of books and hand-drawn sketches serve as his primary resources. Blazy also draws inspiration from the archives, reimagining past designs with his flair. Notably, the Spring/Summer 2024 release of the Liberta bag was a new take on a 1970s design.
Blazy’s ability to transform everyday items into luxury statements became a hallmark of his work at Bottega Veneta from the very start. His debut Fall/Winter 2022 collection introduced the now-iconic leather ‘denim’ jeans – priced at $6,900, they sold out within a fortnight. This approach wasn’t a one-off. Blazy’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection left the fashion world marveling at Trompe-l’œil leather creations. Everyday staples like flannel shirts, creased chinos, and argyle sweaters were reimagined in leather, blurring the lines between art and fashion once more – a quality that will service him well in reinterpreting Chanel’s Ready-to-Wear.
And then there are the bags. Blazy’s greatest commercial success at Bottega is his accessories. His focus on functional luxury also led to the creation of Bottega’s best-selling bags, including the Andiamo, Hop, and Sardine. Given that leather goods remain a driving category for Chanel – Blazy’s knack for timeless yet innovative designs will likely rejuvenate Chanel’s range, perhaps attracting a younger demographic while reigniting passion for the brand. While Blazy is expected to inject fresh energy into Chanel’s iconic bags, it is also likely that prices will continue to rise, or, at the very least, plateau for a while – only time will tell.
Beyond his technical mastery, Blazy has a keen understanding of commercial appeal, creating designs that are both aspirational and accessible. This balance could be pivotal in revitalizing Chanel’s offerings, particularly in appealing to a younger demographic. It may well become the driving force behind the brand’s future collections, bridging the gap between heritage and the next generation of luxury consumers.
Read also: Chanel May Increase Prices Again in 2024 Despite Record-Level Revenues
What’s clear is that the fashion world has immense faith in Blazy. His Bottega Veneta collections have earned widespread praise, with the Spring 2025 collection ranking second in Vogue’s Annual Year in Fashion Poll. His accessories, including the Andiamo bag, were also celebrated as some of the best of the year. And then, of course, there was the question that captivated the industry – “Who should get the Chanel job?” Blazy placed third, with the rumors now becoming a reality.
Chanel’s president for fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky expressed his full support for Blazy’s ability to guide the house into its next chapter:
“I am convinced that he will be able to play with the codes and heritage of the house, through an ongoing dialogue with the studio, our ateliers, and our maisons d’art. His audacious personality, his innovative and powerful approach to creation, as well as his dedication to craftsmanship and beautiful materials, will take Chanel in exciting new directions.”
And now, Chanel aficionados must wait for Blazy’s first collection for the Maison in October 2025. What are your thoughts about Blazy helming Chanel design?
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Updated: December 14th, 2024
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